China
Location
45 Days
Duration
9 / 10
Physicality
18+
Age
Spring Autumn
Best Season

Shishapangma Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,027 m  |  First ascent: 1964 |  Province: Himalaya, Nepal/Tibet

Season: SPRING-AUTUMN  |  Group size: 1-10 person|  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

Among the 14, 8,000m peaks in the world Mt. Shishapangma is the lowest 8000m coming in at (8013m/26335ft). The peak become famous when Joseph Hsu Ching (China) summitted successfully on 2 May, 1964.Mt. Shishapangma is considered by many to be one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb, it is a great prerequisite to Mount Everest. Shishapangma creates a great base for 8000m expeditions; we highly recommend this as your first 8000m ascent. This peak is the highest peak in the Langtang Himal. The Tibetan name is Xixapangma and the Nepalese refer to the peak as Gosaitan meaning “The Holy Place” literally translated it means”The Mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.

The normal route on Shishapangma is non-technical with big skiable snowfields, spectacular ridge to the summit and little objective danger. Extreme Expeditions offers clients a safe and interesting climbing experience with Sherpa guides who have trained to western standards, were born in the mountains of Nepal and have had multiple successes on Everest and other 8000m peaks. Extreme Expeditions operates the Mt. Shishapangma Expedition in spring and autumn. We offer fixed departure groups for spring and autumn each year. Our services also include both full board and base camp logistic services for Shishapangma.

You will be reaching Shishapangma Chinese base camp in Tibet (China) after a 5 day overland trip from Kathmandu, along the way we will have an acclimatization stop in the village of Nylam. After 2 nights acclimatization at the Chinese base camp and 1 overnight stop at the Shishapangma middle camp you will be reaching Shishapangma advanced base camp (5500m), here you will spend about 23 days in your climbing period. Our climbing Sherpa guide and high altitude employees require multiple trips up to camp one, two and three to open the route. This entails fixing rope, and equipping the camps with food and equipment before attempting the summit. From Shishapangma advanced base camp 5600m/18,375ft. To camp one at 6400m/21,000ft it takes about 5 hours. Camp one to camp two at 7100m/23,300ft takes about 4hours. Camp two to camp three at 7500m/24,600fttakes about 4 hours. Camp 4 to the main summit 8,013m 26,289ft and back down to camp two takes around15 hours. The next day you will be descending to base camp. Then we will clean the base camp and drive back overland to Kathmandu.

Us vs. Other Companies

Many companies will tell you how safe they are and that the quality of their service is beyond all other competitors. For clients exploring their options, it becomes very difficult to determine the difference between agencies. So with that being said, we suggest that you shop around and compare research and experience in the field with different companies and go with whatever agency fits your needs the best. What you can expect from us is safe and private transportation to base camps in a comfortable jeep, experienced base camp and high altitude staff, a nutritious menu customized to our clients preferences and as much fresh veggies as possible. We take pride in preparing freshly cooked meals, with snacks and drinks available 24 hours a day. We always provides high quality Northface personal tents, a spacious and comfortable dining tent with functional and comfortable furniture and an efficient heater and pump assisted showers. We use latest model of Poisk brand oxygen and Top out/summit systems of masks and regulators.

Why I Choose us for Shishapangma Expedition?:

  • Highly qualified, combined decades of experience, 5 star quality services
  • Excellent organization, communication and logistical skills
  • We provide fully support, carefully planned and outfitted expeditions
  • We facilitate a memorable lifetime experience for all of our clients.
  • Most experienced and renowned guides in the profession

Climbing Route Camps:

Advanced Base Camp 5600m/18,375ft:

Shishapangma is usually climbed via the Northwest face and the North ridge, these are the standard commercial routes aka the normal climbing routes. The north ridge route is considered the easiest route to the summit of Shishapgnama. The base camp and advanced base camp is located in the biggest area of Tibetan plateau. From this plateau you will have amazing views of the Himalaya. We will set updvanced base camp for almost 22 days. Most high altitude climbers spend 80% of their time at base camp, quickly making it a home away from home on a long expedition. We provide a personal tant to each client which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent becomes the common area and the shower and toilet tent is available at your convenience. Before climbing you are encouraged to participate in a Puja ceremony for good luck.

Camp One 6400m/21,000ft4-5hrs:

Camp 1 (6400m) is located on a flat snowfield with plenty of space for tents. This becomes a deposit camp that allows supplies to be ferried up to the higher camps. From ABC it takes almost 3 hours to reach the crampons point, once on the glacier it is another 2-3 hours to reach camp one. Camp one is a great location to see the view of sunrise and sunset. After camp one we fix about 20-30m and 20M of rope on a 55º slope.

Camp Two 7100m/23,300ft3-4hrs:

Camp 2 is always fixed at about 7100-7150m. Right out of camp one the climbing is flat for almost 30 minutes, after that you encounter fixed lines at 45-50º. Generally the climbing from camp one to camp two is safe but there are some big crevasses that can be difficult to see because they are covered in snow. So we advice our climbers and climbing Sherpa guide to climb on fixed ropes 100% of the time o this section of the route. From camp two you will be able to view Langtang-re if the weather is clear.

Camp Three 7500m/24,600ft3hrs:

Climbing from camp two to camp 3 is strenuous. For one and a half hours you will ascend 150m of fixed line on a 25º snow slope. From here you continue up for another two and a half hour to stair ridge, this is now just below the central summit ridge. From this point continue for a half hour to a col, this is camp three. This space is accommodating for 10-12 two man tents. Here you will rest from 16:00-11:00 before starting your summit push.

Summit8013m/26289ft14 hrs:

Summit day is a steep ascent on a snow and rock ridge to a snow pinnacle that is the false central summit. Most climbers finish here and do not attempt the snowy knife-edge ridge to the real summit that is 18m higher. The view from this particular summit is tremendous, from here you can see Cho Oyu, Everest and number of 7000m satellite peaks surrounding Shishapangma. Most climbers leave for the summit push at about 00:00 and reach the summit between 0700-0900 times. Almost 100% of the climbing route from camp 2 to the summit requires climbing on fixed rope. 98% of climbers descend down to camp three from the central summit. However, for those climbers that choose to summit the real summit the greatest challenge for them is traversin the knife-edge ridge between the two summits. If you are considering traversing the knife edge ridge we recommend that the forecast has 0% chance of wind, snow or low visibility. The ridge would be very risky in bad conditions.

WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT

   Is one of the highest mountains in the world.

   It is one of the most challenging mountains of our world.

✓   Because is a 8000 m peak that can be climbed in both seasons.

DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION

Your hometown-Nepal-Return

INCLUDED

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from international airport with other necessary surface transportation as per itinerary
  • Assistance at the international airport by our representative upon arrival and departure
  • 5 nights request level of  hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as per itinerary
  • Truck for expedition equipment from Kathmandu-Kerung-Kathmandu and private jeep transportation for climbing members.
  • Chinese custom clearances at the border
  • Chinese Government Royalty for Shishapagma expedition for group and climbing Sherpa guide
  • Chinese visa for base camp staff, Sherpa and climbing group
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa guide/client ratio
  • TMA or CTMA selected English speaking Chinese liaison officer and interpreter
  • All camping equipment in base camp and advanced base camp
  • Full board hotel in-route to Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam (B/L/D) provided by CTMA
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff
  • Tibet Visa and travel permit for expedition crew
  • Expedition permit to climbing  Shishapangma along the northwest ridge route
  • Permanent kitchen facilities at advanced base camp
  • All staff during expedition period. This includes experienced guide, base camp manager and other personal as needed.
  • Ground transportation will be available as per itinerary
  • Cargo clearance duties assistance service free
  • Daily wages, equipment allowance & insurance for expedition staff
  • Gamow bag (Portable Hyperbaric Chamber)
  • Solar panels for light and battery charging
  • High quality and durable personal tent at base camp and advanced base camp
  • Permanent kitchen and dining facilities at advanced base camp
  • Shower facility at base camp and advanced base camp
  • All necessary climbing hardware and ropes
  • High quality meals at BC, ABC, higher camps. Freeze dried meals on the climbing route
  • Hot drinks and beverages available24 hours a day during the climbing expedition
  • High quality freeze dried food for Sherpa and staff during the climbing period
  • 2 oxygen bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
  • We provide Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance
  • Ice falls charges
  • All tents for the higher camps 1, 2, 3 ·
  • EPI gas and burners for cooking food above base camp
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for chef, climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staff
  • All necessary camping equipment like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, kitchen tent, shower, toilet tents etc
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period (carried by yak)
  • Truck will be provided at Kerung border crossing into Chinese base camp
  • Yaks carry the loads from Chinese base camp to middle camp to advanced base camp
  • Experienced, trained and government licensed climbing guide(s) during the climbing period per person as per request
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone carried by the guide. Available for clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
  • Appropriate high altitude food for all climbing staff at base camp and above as required
  • Emergency oxygen and mask regulator
  • All necessary paperwork, office service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure
  • special gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
  • Our service charges

NOT INCLUDED

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry, expenses, tips
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc
  • Extra transportation that is not display in itinerary program
  • Any additional staff other than specified
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
  • Walkies -talkies Filming permit (if special camera)
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Expenses incurred during usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies -talkies, satellite phone and internet
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear
  • Nepal custom fees for import of expedition equipment
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff
  • Airfare of international flights
  • Nepal entry visa fee
  • Any extra services, products, offers or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section

ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION

Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel (135M/4429ft)

Day 2-3: Rest and preparation day for assignment & briefing before departure from Kathmandu.

Day 04:After having breakfast early in the morning, you drive from Kathmandu to Syprubeshi (1460m/4790ft) overnight at tea house accommodation .

Day 05:Early in the morning drive from Syprubeshi to Kerung border (2000m/6562ft) after immigration formalities at the border crossing, you drive to Kerung height (3200m/10499ft)-02hrs drive jeep. Overnight stay in hotel.

Day 06:After having breakfast drive from Kerung to Tingri (4,348 m (14,268 ft) to Chinese Base Camp (4,800m/15745ft.) which takes about three hours drive. Overnight in hotel.

Day 7-8: Rest Day at Chinese Base Camp for acclimatization

Day 09: Trek from Chinese base camp to middle Camp (5220m/17125ft.)

Day 10: Trek from Middle camp to Shisapangma Advance base camp (5400m)

D 11-40: Climbing period to summit Shishapangma(8013m/26289), Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Summit.

Day 41: Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) and trek to Middle camp (5200m17125ft.) and then drive to Tingri (4,348m/14,268 ft).

Day 42: Early in the morning drive from Tingri (4,348m/14,268 ft) to Kerung boarder (2000m/6562ft) overnight at hotel accommodation.

Day 43: After the immigration formalities from China side, we will collect Nepal Visa from and drive to Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.

Day 44:Free day in Kathmandu and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

Day45:Transfer to airport for final departure