Extreme Expeditions is a Romanian based company that is organizing and selling mountain expedition services all across the world by itself and ventured with its partners
Manaslu Expedition: An Overview
Elevation: 8,163 m | First ascent: 1955 | Province: Himalaya, Nepal
Season: SPRING | Group size: Minimum 2 | Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!
The Mount Manaslu Expedition 8,163m (26,763ft) is usually a first choice for adventures climbers looking to climb an 8000m peak. The route was opened by Japanese climbers Mr. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu on May 9, 1956. Attention was being put on Manaslu since 1950 when Mr. Harold William Tilman made a reconnaissance expedition of the peak. He stated that there is a potential route of ascent from the north-east.
Manaslu Peak also known as “Kutang” it is the eighth highest peak in the world. It in the central-western part of Nepal. The exact coordinates are: Latitude 28°33’01”N, Longitude 84°33’42”E. Its name, which means „mountain of the spirit”, comes from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning „intellect” or „soul”. The Manaslu Expedition can be compared to Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Shishapangma expeditions. These 3 8000m peaks are considered to be the “easiest” out of the 14 8000m peaks in the world. We here back form a lot of experienced mountaineers that Mt. Manaslu is the best 8000m peak to climb to prepare for a Mt. Everest ascent.
It is recommended that you climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma for training before attempting Mt. Manaslu. The approache to Manaslu is stunning, the long ridges and wide glacier valleys make for a feasible approach from all directions. The peak towers steeply above the surrounding landscape. Normally, most of the climbers use the route of Northeast ridge to ascend to the summit, this is the standard fixed route. There are 6 different climbing routes on Mt. Manaslu. The South face is the most challenging. The standard route follows a relatively straightforward line to the summit, which has few technical sections. Normally, four camps are set up after Advanced Base Camp.However some of the strong climbers do a summit push from camp three. From the Base Camp, climbers has to bear a few stretches of steep climbing and crevasses from Camp I to Camp II, slippery snow climbing is required from Camp II to Camp III and possibility of facing avalanches from Camp III to Camp IV during the attempts. After the big avalanche in the spring of 2013, there are 3 to 4 sections in the icefall’s where there are 3-5 meters long latter’s in place.
Manaslu north east Col Route Camps:
Base Camp (4800M/15,750ft):
Manaslu base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. Extreme Expeditions base camp will be setup for almost 35 days. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points with different group and strategic viewing positions of the Manaslu massif. We will provide a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established and hot beverages and snacks will be available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss; it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Camp 1 (5700m/18,700ft)-04hrs:
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp 1 which is at a height of 18,700ft/5800m. In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses and short ice sections on the first section of glacier. Prior to the first section of glacier you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine. For average climbers it takes about 4 hours. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour, then you reach the crampon point at the mouth of the glacier, the glacier portion takes about 3 hours. Camp one is divided into two sections, lower camp 1 and upper camp 1, the distance between the two is 100m/328ft.
Camp 2 (6400m/21,000ft)-05hrs:
The climbing from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on Mt. Manaslu. During this section you encounter the heart of the icefall. The first section is just slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you encounter several steep section of ice, 2 ladder crossings and steep snow climbing. Expect that this section will take you about 5 hours. Expect that you will encounter several steep sections of ice that are 100m at a slope of 65º. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the icefall on a snowy terrace.
Camp two to camp three is the shortest distance and will be your shortest climbing day. It does not require any ladder crossings, but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter that need to be jumped. The main ropes are fixed by climbing Sherpa’s team. This section for most climbers feels easier, but still it is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is still on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in spring there has been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm
Camp 4 (7500m/24,606ft):
Climbing from camp 3 to camp 4 feels like a long day, the distance of short nut now you are nearing the death zone. As all climbers as aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3-4 hours on steep snow that is on a 50-55º slope. This section is dangerous because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make ethos section avalanche prone. Comparing with other sections of the route, this portion is extremely physical with sustained steep snow sections at extreme altitude in avalanche terrain.
Summit (8156m/26,759ft)-16-17 hrs:
Summit day, the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 1:00 am. if all goes well they reach the summit between 7-10 am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp 4 from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp three for overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Our Sherpa guides will fix ropes break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.
WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT
✓ Is one of the highest mountains in the world.
✓ It is one of the most challenging mountains of our world.
✓ Because is one of the 8,000 m peaks that can be climbed in autumn season.
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at KTM international airport by our local partners during your arrival and departure.
- 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B&B basis.
- Experienced and government licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period.
- Land transportation from Kathmandu-Arughat-Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- All kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp.
- Common climbing equipment such as: Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar.
- 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee.
- Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period.
- All camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member.
- All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period.
- 60kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules.
- Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
- Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp.
- Trekking Permit (Manaslu Conservation Park entry fee).
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Manaslu restricted area trekking permit during the expedition period.
- Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Manaslu.
- Nepalese Government Royalty.
- One experienced, trained, government Licensed and 3 time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person.
- All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period.
- Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff.
- Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp.
- Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer.
- First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
- Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients with the cost of $3USD per minute.
- Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required.
- Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
- Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent.
- Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of client with requirement appropriate charge.
- Each client will have an individual tent available in the Manaslu advanced base camp.
- Solar panel for light and electronics charging.
- All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges.
- Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness.
- 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided for each member.
- Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided.
- We provide Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing and insurance.
- Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
- EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp one, three and South Col for cooking food.
- Generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp.
- Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules.
- Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information.
- Flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services.
- Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner.
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and internet expenses.
- Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
- Transportation services includes only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be appropriately charged.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
- Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if you have a special camera).
- Personal climbing gear.
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment.
- Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival).
- Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section.
ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft).
Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
Day 03:Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat (950m/3117ft) 7hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 04:Trek from Arughat to Sotikhola (1165m/3822ft)) 5hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 05:Trek from Sotikhola to Machhakhola(1330m/4364ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 06: Trek from Machhakhola to Jagat(1350m/4430ft) 4hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 07:Trek from Jagat to Dang(2310m/7579ft) 6-7hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 08:Trek from Dang to Namrung(2681m/8589ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 09:Trek from Namrung to Lho (3150m/10334ft) 5hrs. Tea house/camping.
Day 10:Trek from Lho to Sama Gaun(3780m/12401ft) 4hrs. Tea house/camping
Day 11:Rest and acclimatization day at Sama Gaun (4359m/14301ft) Tea house/camping
Day 12:Trek from Sama Village to Manaslu Base Camp (4700m/15420ft) 4hrs. Camping at base camp
Day13-41:Climbing period. (8163m/26781ft.) Camping.
Day 42:Preparation to return to Kathmandu. Clean base camp (4700m/15420ft)
Day 43:Trek from Base Camp to Sama Gaun (3780m/12401ft) 3hrs. Tea house.
Day 44:Trek from Sama Gaun to Namrung(2550m/8366ft) 6hrs. Tea house/camping.
/Day 45: Trek from Namrung to Philim village (2300m/7546ft-06hrs) Tea house/camping.
Day 46:Trek from Philim Village to Machakhola(1330m/4664ft) 6hrs. Tea house/ camping
Day 47: Trek from Machakhola to Arughat (950m3117ft) 8hrs. Tea house/camping.
Day 48:Drive from Arughat to Kathmandu (1350/4429ft) 7 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus.Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
Day 49:Free day.Relax and shop in Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
Day 50:Transfer to KTM airport for final departure.