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Lhotse Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,516 m  |  First ascent: 1956 |  Province: Himalaya, Nepal

Season: SPRING  |  Group size: Minimum 2 |  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

Mount Lhotse (8516M/27,940ft.) was first climbed on May 18th,1956 when the climbers Mr. Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland. In 1955 the International Himalayan Expedition team, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth reached 8100m on Lhotse. The team included two Austrians climbers Erwin Schneider, Ernst Senn, and two Swiss Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel. They were accompanied by almost 200 local porters and 8 climbing Sherpas guide. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention the Northwest face of Lhotse. The groups were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. When the team noted the coordinate of 27°57’45” N 86°56’03’’ E was the real summit location, south col become the normal climbing routes. The caravan route of Mt. Lhotse Expedition is the same as the route with Mt. Everest. All expedition team of Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse reach just below the South col on the Lhotse face and set up camp I, II, III at the same place.  After considering the history and previous climbing experience Extreme Expeditions noted that Mt. Lhotse Expedition isextremely technical compared to Mt. Manaslu, Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu.

Mt. Lhotse is becoming famous for its tremendous and dramatic South face. The South faceraises 3.2 km and is 2.25 km wide making it the steepest face of this size in the world. Hence it is registered as one of the most extremely difficult climbs and is rarely attempted. Lhotse is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located right away south of Mount Everest, and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m. In fact Lhotse has 3 summits. The main summit of Lhotse is at elevation of (8,516m /27,940ft), Lhotse Middle (8,414m/27,605ft) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m/27,503ft). As of now most of the climbers and mountain lovers formerly note that there are only 14 mountains above 8000m on the earth.8 of those mountains lie in Nepal but recently it has been changed and it seems that there are 12 8000m mountains in the Himalaya if you count Lhotse Middle, Lhotse Sher, Kanchenjunga middle and South east. The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest’s South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached

The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb about a 1000m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40-45 degree with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Our climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up this wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face. The approached Lhotse route is through the famous Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4750m). After half an hour scenic flight to Lukla (Which is known as the Khumbu gateway point) you will be trekking toward Namche Bazaar (3400m), Tengboche (3800m), Pheriche (4200m), Lobuche (4710m), Gorak Shep (5150m) to Everest/Lhotse; Base Camp (5200m). It takes typically 8-9 days to reach Advance base camp from Kathmandu.

The Lhotse expedition is a serious logistical excursion with lots of food, supplies and equipment being hauled up along the Everest Base Camp trek by armies of porters and Sherpa guides carrying ropes, ladders and equipment to high camps.Clients wait patiently in the base camp as the Sherpa set up miles of fixed lines and find the path for their clients. The Lhotse climbing expedition along the South col is calling the normal Lhotse climbing route. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push of 6 consecutive days from base camp and will go as follows: Base Camp – Camp II(6400M): Camp 2 – Camp 3 Camp III (7100m): Camp III– Camp IV Camp IV (7900m):Camp IV – Summit(8516M)– Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.

Lhotse South Col Route Camps:

Khumbu Ice fall:

Once past the Khumbu icefall the route is not that challenging technically and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb in Lhotse. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpas guides (Ice fall enactor) set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.

Base Camp: (5200m/17,060ft.)

Lhotse base camp is located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful and is surrounded by Pumori, Lola and Nuptse, The Khumbu Icefall experiences warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.

Camp I: (5900m/19,357ft.)

Reaching C1 is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation. Once you have proper acclimation our plans calls for us to move up and down directly from camp II for safely.

Camp II: (6400m/20,998ft.)

Camp II is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of West ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp that you will spend most time after base camp.

Camp III: (7100m/23,294ft.)

Climbing the Lhotse Face to camp III is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to camp III, but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.

Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.)

Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. Camp IV is the last camp, it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp IV: The Yellow Band a layer of marble, phyllite and semischist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.

Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.)11-16 hours

The last section of the climb from camp III to camp IV takes 11-16 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80 degree bulge. The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good rhythm of foot placement and pulling themselves up the ropes using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face, before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.


   Is the third tallest mountain in the world

   It is one of the most challenging mountains of our world.

✓   It is on the same col with Everest, and you can see the summit very close.


Your hometown-Nepal-Return


  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both domestic and international flight as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the international airport by our partners while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
  • 4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
  • Schedule flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
  • All trekking and mountaineering equipment like:Kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advanced base camp and camp II.
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at base camp.
  • 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee available in the tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking period.
  • 3 fresh meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinnerwill be served at advanced base camp.
  • All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the expedition for clients and staff.
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period,carried by porter.
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company.
  • Trekking permit (Everest National Park entry fee).
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition royalty and climbing permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Lhotse (8516m).
  • Nepalese government royalty and fees.
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3 times Everest Summiteers Climbing/expedition guide (Sherpa) per client.
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurances for all involved staff during trekking and expedition periods.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpa’s, chefs, kitchen assistants.
  • Equipment allowances and wages for government liaison officer.
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available to clients at a cost of $3USD per minute.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period.
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
  • Emergency oxygen, mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charging.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
  • Ice fall charges by SPCC.
  • Gamow bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
  • 5 Bottles (28L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided each members (we use Poisk brands of the Oxygen).
  • Latest model of summit or top out system mask and regulators.
  • Sherpas tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff.
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, chef and staff.
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties.
  • Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp II.
  • Trekking and climbing map of Mount Lhotse.
  • EPI cooking gas.Stove will be provided in camp one, three and the South col for cooking food and boiling water.
  • Generator will be providing back-up of lighting power and the charging of electronic tools.
  • Transportation of food supply from base camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp).
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information.
  • Flight ticket reconfirmation.
  • Visa extension procedure services (if necessary).
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.


  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
  • Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc.
  • Extra transportation other than what is displayed in the itinerary program.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies.
  • Filming permit.
  • Personal climbing gear.
  • Expenses incurred towards the usage of landlines, internet expenses,mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone.
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment.
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa guides as per mountaineering association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide.
  • Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section.


Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4,430ft).

Day 02: Preparation and briefings at Departments of Tourism, last minute shopping.

Day 03:Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8,694ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11,286ft) 6hrs. Lodge accommodation.

Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization.You will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12,487ft) 3hrs. Catch a glimpse of Everest.Explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3850m/12,631ft) 5-6 hrs.Visit significant Buddhist monastery.Lodge accommodation.

07 April/Day 07: Trek from Tengboche to Dengboche (4350m/14,271ft) 4-5 hrs. Catch glimpses of Ama Dablam and Lhotse.Lodge accommodation.

Day 08: Acclimatization in Dingboche(4350M/14,271ft).Hiking up to Chukung-Re.

Day 09: Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m/16,463ft) 4-5hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m/16,962ft) 3hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 11: Morning acclimatize to Kalapther (5554m) after breakfast Trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp (5200m/17060ft) 2hrs.

Day12-55:Climbing period (8516m/27,940ft).

Day 56: Preparation for return, trek from Everest base camp to Dingboche(4350m/14,271ft) 4hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 57: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860m/12,631ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 58:Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,286ft, 4hrs) Lodge accommodation.

Day 59:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9,317ft) 7hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 60:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350m/4,430ft) 35mins.Transfer to hotel.

Day 61: Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu. Fair well-celebration dinner with culture program in the evening.

Day 62:Transfer to the airport for final departure.