Nepal
Location
67 Days
Duration
10 / 10
Physicality
18+
Age
Spring
Best Season

Everest North Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,848 m  |  First ascent: 1953 |  Province: China/Tibet

Season: SPRING  |  Group size: 2-10 person|  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

When most people think of Nepal they think of Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain in the world at 8,848M (29,029ft). Reaching the summit of Everest is the Holy Grail for most mountaineers and is considered a lifetime achievement. There are two standard approaches to climbing Everest, one from the north via Tibet and one from the south via the Khumbu Icefall. These are two totally different experiences, with the North ridge being windy and desolate and the south side being a scenic and magical place including the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse face. The Sagarmatha, “Forehead of the Sky” in Nepali, is known as Mt. Everest around the world.

The Everest expedition experience is similar to an extended peak climbing trip, but at an elevation above 8,000 meters. It is not technical peak climbing, but more similar to an extended trekking experience in Nepal. Climbing Everest is an enormously physical experience, requiring that you push your body to the extreme, living in a unnatural place, beyond the normal boundary of its capabilities and or a short time into the death zone. Oxygen deprivation is extreme forcing the body to slowly begin to breakdown both physically and mentally. There is however an enormous satisfaction at the end of this difficult process providing each climber with an enormous sense of achievement that lasts forever.
Everest expedition is a multifaceted experience with phase one bring the Everest Base Camp trek through Khumbu valley with it colorful villages full of art and tradition and friendly Sherpa culture. Following the trek to Everest Base camp, there is the Everest Base Camp experience itself, which provides its own challenges of living for 4 weeks in the surroundings of the Khumbu glacier. Finally there is the acclimatization period of climbing to camp 1, 2, and 3 and eventually to camp 4 at the south col and hopefully success on the summit.
Trekking back to Lukla after the climb along the Everest Base camp trek in reverse is a enormous sense of achievement for those reaching the summit and moreover a sense of stepping outside your comfort zone for being daring enough to challenge the mountain.

The Everest expedition is a serious logistic exercise with lots of food, supplies and equipment being hauled up along the Everest Base Camp trek by armies of porters and Sherpa guides carrying ropes, ladders and equipment to high camps for the clients patiently waiting in the Base Camp and setting up miles of fixed lines and finding path for their clients.
The Everest expedition along the south face is calling the South East Ridge which is known as the Normal Everest climbing route. As per our company record the summit Co-ordinates Latitude is 27°59’17” N and Longitude is 86°55’31” E. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push on 7 consecutive days from Base Camp as follows: Base Camp – camp one Camp 1 (6065m): camp one – Camp 2 Camp 2 6400M: Camp 2 – Camp 3Camp 3 (7100m): Camp 3 – Camp 4 Camp 4 (7920m) (South Col, 7,900m):Camp 4 – Summit(8848M)– Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.

Mt. Everest was first summated by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealand climbers Mr. Edmond Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay with a British expedition in 1953 were used the South Col route first time to summit Mount Everest. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note; Norway was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest.

Around 2000 AD, when expedition operators started operating on Everest from north side, there were very few teams and very little infrastructure available. Over the years expedition operators have continuously been improving the routes and new methods and standards have lead to a high level of success and safety of our climbers. Our partners has helped with these methods on the South Side and have helped build the standard level of service and safety on Everest. We are concerned by the unstable nature of the Khumbu Icefall and subsequently have created a system by which clients and our team move through the Khumbu ice fall much less than in the past. This is the reason we acclimatize on nearby peaks including Island Peak and or Lobuche Peak to help avoid rotations on Mt. Everest.

South Side Climbing Routes:

The south route is technically a trekking route with a little objective danger once you move past the Khumbu icefall apart from a few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, a couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and some rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude illness and the unpredictable mountain weather.

The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with objective dangers. This is the most dangerous part of the climb, but we attempt to alleviate the danger installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs and ice walls for efficient and easier climbing. These arrangements make climbing through the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially in the early morning when the ice structure is more stable. The Khumbu ice fall is much more dangerous in the afternoon due to the sun and warming of the ice.

South Col Route Camps:

Base camp: 17,060’/5200m

Everest base camp located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful surrounded by Pumori, Lola, Nuptse, Nutse and the Khumbu Icefall with warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.

C1: 19,357’/5900m

Reaching C1 is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000′ feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice sera’s and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation. Once you have proper acclimation our plans calls for us to move up and down directly from camp II for safely.

C2: 20,998’/6400m

Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp, where you are spending the most time after base camp.

C3: 23,294’/7100m

Climbing the Lhotse Face to C3 is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to C3, but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.

South Col: 26,300’/8000m

Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Everest to the north and Lhotse on the south. Located at the South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: the Yellow Band an inter-layer of marble, phyllite and semi schist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.

Summit: 29,029′/8848m – 1 hour or less

The last section from the south Col to the summit takes 09-13 hours to navigate. There is the Balcony, the Hillary Step, and the south summit before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.

WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT

   Is the tallest mountain in the world.

   It is the easiest route to Everest summit.

✓   Because is there. 🙂

DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION

Your hometown-Nepal-Return

INCLUDED-FULL BOARD SERVICE

  • Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
  •  Assistance at the International airport by our local partners while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
  •  4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  •  Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
  •  Schedule Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
  •  All trekking and mountaineering equipment like; kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advance Base Camp and camp two.
  •  Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
  •  Services of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp and cook at Camp 2
  •  3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea/ coffee) in  available tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking
  •  3 fresh meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners) will be serve at base camp, and camp two.
  •  All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition for both members and crews.
  •  Per person 60kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak to climbing the Mt. Everest.
  •  Daily Weather Report Services from Seattle based
  •  Trekking Permit (Everest National Park entry fee)
  •  TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  •  Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Everest (8848M).
  •  Nepalese Government Royalty and fees;
  •  One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteers Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
  •  All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
  •  Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp.
  •  Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, kitchen boys.
  •  Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officer.
  •  First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  •  Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 3 per minute call.
  •  Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  •  Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  •  Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
  •  Emergency Oxygen, mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
  •  Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  •  Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  •  All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4 for members and staff.
  •  Ice fall charges by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
  •  Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
  •  7  Bottles (28L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided each members (we use Poisk brands of the Oxygen)
  •  Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators
  •  Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff
  •  Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, cook and staff.
  •  Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  •  Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at camp two.
  • Trekking and Climbing map of the  Mount Everest.
  •  EPI Cooking gas, stove will be provided in camp one, three and south col for cooking food, boiling water.
  •  Generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
  •  Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp)
  •  Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  •  Complete pre-departure information
  •  Flight ticket reconfirmation
  •  visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  •  Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.

NOT INCLUDED

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  •  Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
  •  Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  •  Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  •  Extra transportation then display in itinerary program.
  •  Any additional staff other than specified.
  •  Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  •  Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  •  Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  •  Wallie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera or walkies-talkies).
  •  Personal climbing gears;
  •  Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
  •  Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  •  Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  •  Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum US$ 1500.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
  •  Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
  •  Airfare of international flights.
  •  Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
  •  Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  •  Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section.

ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION

31 March/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft)

01 April/Day 02:Preparation, Briefings at Departments of tourism, Last minute shopping

02 April/Day 03:Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8694ft, 04 hrs); lodge accommodation

03 April/Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11286ft, 06hrs); Lodge accommodation

04 April/Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization; you will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12487ft, 3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Everest; explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.

05 April/Day 06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m/12631ft, 05-06 hrs); visit significant Buddhist monastery; lodge accommodation

06 April/Day 07:Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m/14271ft, 4hrs) about 4-5hrs; catch glimpses of Ama Dablam and Lhotse; lodge accommodation

07 April/Day 08:Acclimatization in Dingboche(4350M/14271ft) hiking up to chhukung-re.

08 April/Day 09:Trek from Dingboche to Lobuche (5018m/16463ft, 4-5hrs); lodge accommodation

09 April/Day 10:Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m/16962ft, 3hrs); lodge accommodation

10 April/Day 11:Morning acclimatize to Kalapathar (5554M) after breakfast Trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base camp (5200m/17060, 2hrs)

11-30May/D 12-60:Climbing period Summit Everest (8,848m/ 29029ft)

31 May/Day 61:Preparation for return, trek from Everest base camp to Dingboche(4350m/14271ft, 4hrs) , lodge accommodation

01 June/Day 62: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860m/12631ft, 04 hours) lodge accommodation

02 June/Day 63:Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286ft, 04hrs) lodge accommodation.

03 June/Day 64:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9317ft,7hrs) lodge accommodation

04 June/Day 65:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft); 35minutes, transfer to hotel

05 June/Day 66:Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu; Fair well-Celebration dinner with culture program in the Evening.

06 June/Day 67:Transfer to the airport for final departure