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Everest North Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,848 m  |  First ascent: 1953 |  Province: China/Tibet

Season: SPRING  |  Group size: 2-10 person|  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

Mt. Everest (North Face), is the tallest mountain in the world (29,029 feet/8,848 meters) and an incredible challenge and experience. Extreme Expeditions offers a full service expedition of this world renowned peak with a medium number of climbers and a 1:1 climbing Sherpa/guide to each climber. We are committed to providing the highest level of support with strong and experienced climbing guides and Sherpa support and the best high end gear.

The first attempt of Everest from the north side was by a British team in 1921. George Mallory led a small team to be the first human to set foot on the mountains flanks by climbing up to the North Col 7,003 meters (22,975 feet). The second expedition, in 1922 reached 8,321 meters (27,300 feet) before turning back. This was also the first team to use supplemental oxygen. The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew “Sandy” Irvine is most notable for the mystery of whether they summated. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years. Mallory’s body was found in 1999 along the north side route, but there was no proof that he died going up or coming down. A Chinese team made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, 1960. Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-Zhou, who is said to have climbed the Second Step in his sock feet, claimed the honor. In 1975, on a successful summit expedition, the Chinese installed the ladder on the Second Step. Tibet was closed to foreigners from 1950 to 1980 preventing any further attempts until a Japanese team summited in 1980 via the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face. There have been 4,428 total summits of Mt. Everest up to 2014.

Extreme Expeditions always offers an incomparable level of competency, safety, and comfort in the Everest north (Tibet side) expeditions. In the mountaineering, small group size always allows us to adapt to changing conditions and weather far more easily than many commercial teams, which have become so large over the last five years that they have become difficult to manage. As per our previous experience there are only 2-3 summit windows allow by nature because of weather condition. We always supply and provide fresh and nutritious food at base camp, provide request types of hygienic food above base camp. We always supply sufficient of Mask, regulator and bottle of Oxygen that add up to a far more enjoyable experience and successful climb. We follow itinerary is made possible by utilizing per-acclimatization in hypoxic tents. For Everest Expedition, the climbing Guides of our company are highly skilled, time to time reviewed and recognized by worldwide due to their training and experiences in this profession and paid up the high range of wages and fees. To these guides and climbers in our Everest Expedition we are going to put on a rope with. This is a serious climb with serious consequences should things go wrong. So, one of the most things we have to keep in mind while operating Mt. Everest Expedition is prevention. The route on the north side of Everest begins at the Chinese Base Camp (5,150 meters which is located at the Rongbuk Glacier. The Chinese Base Camp is accessible from Tingri by jeep.

Everest Northeast Route Camps:

Everest Base Camp: 5,150 meters(16,700 feet)

Located on a gravel area 8 kilometers above Rongbuk Monastery, this is the end of the road. All vehicle assisted evacuations start here and there are no helicopter evacuations possible in Tibet. Everest Base Camp is a term that is used to describe two base camps on opposite sides of Mount Everest. The North Base Camp is in Tibet at 5,150 meters (16,900 ft) latitude of 28°8′29″N and longitude of 86°51′5″E. These camps are rudimentary campsites that are used by mountain climbers during their ascent and descent. Climbers typically rest at base camp for several days for acclimatization to reduce the risks and severity of altitude sickness.

Intermediate Camp: 6,100 meters (20,300 feet)– 6-7 hours

The intermediate camp is used on the first trek to ABC during the acclimatization process. This is no more than a resting place for the night where a few tents are placed. This area can be lightly snow covered, or with no snow at all depending on the weather. Most climbers only stop here ascending to advance camp from base camp. When descending you can walk from ABC to BC in about 6 hours’ time and this camp will not be necessary.

Advanced Base Camp (ABC): 6,485 meters (21,276 feet)– 6 hours

Advanced Base Camp on the north side of Everest is one of the highest advance base camps in the world. This position makes it shorter and easier for climbers to reach camp I, II and III from advance base camp. Most teams will use ABC as their primary camp during the acclimatization period, but due to its altitude, some climbers may need to descend to the intermediate camp to acclimate. ABC may or may not be snow covered and offers stunning views of the North Col.

Camp I (North Col): 7,000 meters (23,000 feet)– 5- 6 hours

Camp I is located just above the East Rongbuk Glacier. Most climbers will use crampons upon reaching the glacier. Within an hour of starting the ascent on the glacier, climbers will begin to utilize a fixed line and cross ladders that are placed over deep crevasses. In some areas the use of an ascender on the fixed rope will be very helpful. Rappelling, or arm-wrapping techniques are used to descend the steeper areas of this section. Generally climbers will spend 4-5 nights at camp I during the expedition.

 Camp II: 7,500 meters (24,750 feet) – 5 hours

The route to Camp II consists of a steep and snowy ridge that eventually turns to rock. High winds are sometimes a problem during this section making it especially cold. The wind and air pressure is usually higher on the north face side versus the south side. Some expeditions use Camp II as their highest camp for acclimatization purposes before beginning the summit push.

 Camp III: 8,250 meters (27,390 feet)– 6 hours

Camp III is located along the steep area of the mountain that runs from 8,250-8,350 meters. There are a few small areas in this location to set up camp III and different expeditions will select different areas in the same general area. This area is steep, rocky and exposed and tents are perched on rock ledges and generally battered by the wind. Camp III on the north side is 350 meters higher than the South Col and much more exposed. Most teams use this high camp as the last rest spot before the summit bid.

Summit: 8,850 meters (29,029 feet) 9-13 hours.

From camp III to the summit is a really long and hard day. Climbers use a fixed rope through a snow filled gully, which is part of the Yellow Band. From the Yellow Band, the climbers change their oxygen cylinder and take a small ramp up to the northeast ridge. The route veers to the right of the high point and most climbers rate it as steep and challenging. From the Mushroom Rock, located at 8,600 meters, the route can be full of loose rock adding to the difficulty. The next part of the climb is the Second Step, which is the crux of the climb, as climbers use the Chinese Ladder. Climbers first ascend a 10 foot rock slab and then climb the near vertical 30 foot ladder. This section is very exposed with a 9,000 foot vertical drop. Generally it is more difficult to navigate on the decent since you cannot see your foot placement on the ladder rungs. Strong climbers take 9 to 10 hours to reach the summit and return to camp III, while more moderate and less experienced climbers take 11-13 hours. Most climbers use 3-4 bottles of oxygen during the summit push and another bottles between camp II and III.


   Is the tallest mountain in the world.

   It is the easiest route to Everest summit.

✓   Because is there. 🙂


Your hometown-Nepal-Return


  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
  • Assistance at KTM international airport by our representatives during your arrival and departure.
  • 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis
  • One night hotel accommodation in Pokhara. B/B plan
  • Experienced and government licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period
  • Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period
  • Land transportation from Kathmandu-Pokhara- Late-Beni Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff
  • All kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp
  • Common climbing equipment such as: Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar
  • 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee
  • Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period
  • All camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member
  • All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp
  • Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee)
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Annapurna First
  • Nepalese Government Royalty
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3 time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff
  • Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
  • Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of client with requirement appropriate charge
  • Each client will have an individual tent available in the Annapurna first advanced base camp
  • Solar panel for light and electronics charging
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges
  • Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness
  • 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided for each member
  • Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided
  • We provide Sherpas tents, food for climbing and insurance
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
  • EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp one, three and South Col for cooking food
  • Generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp
  • Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information
  • Flight ticket re-confirmation and visa extension procedure services
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu before departure


  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1500.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, Walkies -talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpa/guide.
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.


Day 01:Arrival at Kathmandu Airport & transfer to Yak and Yeti hotel

Day2-3:Rest and prep day for assignment & briefing before departure from Kathmandu.

Day 04:After having breakfast early in the morning, you drive from Kathmandu to Syprubeshi (1460m/4790ft) overnight at tea house accommodation .

Day 05:Early in the morning drive from Syprubeshi to Kerung border (2000m/6562ft) after immigration formalities at the border crossing, you drive to Kerung height (3200m/10499ft)-02hrs drive jeep. Overnight stay in hotel.

Day 06:After having breakfast drive from Kerung to Tingri (4,348 m (14,268 ft)) which takes about three hours drive. Overnight in hotel.

Day 07:Rest day at Tingri for acclimatization. Our guide will lead team up a local hill to 5,000m with great views of Cho Oyu.

Day 08:After breakfast drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5,150m) which takes 4 hours.

Day 9-11:Rest and acclimatization at Chinese Base Camp (5,150m). Prepare and arrange yaks to go to Advance Base Camp via middle camp.

Day 12:After breakfast, trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5,700m) which takes five to six house hours. Overnight in camp.

Day 13:Trek from Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest (6,485m.) Prepare camp overnight in camp

Day 14-55:Climbing period (summit of Mt. Everest 8,848m)

Day 56:Preparation for returning (clean advance base camp) and trek to Chinese Base Camp. Bring down all equipment by Yak.

Day 57: Clean Chinese Base Camp then drive from Chinese Base Camp to Tingri (4,348m/14,268 ft), which takes about seven hours, overnight in hotel .

Day 58: Early in the morning drive from Tingri (4,348m/14,268 ft) to Kerung boarder (2000m/6562ft)

Day 59:After the immigration formalities from China side, we will collect Nepal Visa from and drive to Kathmandu, transfer to hotel.

Day 60:Free day in Kathmandu and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

Day 61:Transfer to airport for final departure