Himalaya
Location
46 Days
Duration
9 / 10
Physicality
18+
Age
Spring Autumn
Best Season

Dhaulagiri Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,167 m  |  First ascent: 1960 |  Province: Himalaya, Nepal

Season: SPRING-AUTUMN  |  Group size: 2-10 person|  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

Dhaulagiri I (8167m/26,795ft) is the seventh highest peak in the world and the fifth highest peak in Nepal. The name Dhaulagiri comes from the Sanskrit word where Dhawala means “Dazzling, White Beautiful” and Giri means “Mountain”. The normal climbing route for Dhaulagiri is the Northeast ridge. The exact coordinates are: 28°41’48”N, Latitude and 83°29’42”E Longitude. Dhaulagiri was first summated by an Austrian, Swiss and Nepali expedition on May 13, 1960. The expedition was led by Max Eiselin and included Nyima Dorje Sherpa, Nawang Dorje Sherpa. P. Diener, E, Kurt Dismember,Forrer, A. Schubert. Following this there was five expeditions that tried attempt the North face, or „Pear Buttress” between 1953–1958.  Dhaulagiri I is the highest point of the Gandaki River basin. Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna Iare when viewed from the South are just in front of each other and you can see both massive peaks from each summit. Dhaulagiri I prominence is striking and is certainly a unique characteristic of the mighty mountain. The South and West faces are immense and rise up over 4000m. Most of the Dhaulagiri ascents have been successful from the Northeast Ridge route. In 1969 an American Dhaulagiri expedition team led by Boyd Everett attempt the southeast ridge, unfortunately some team members, including Everett, was killed in an unexpected avalanche.

Dhaulagiri Expedition is a more formidable peak to climb. The first successful summit was not until 1960. The sheer size of Dhaulagiri is unparalleled to any other peak, it rises over 7000m over the Kali Gandaki Valley and is 30km long, which by any standard is an impressive statistic. The majority of ascents till date have been made via the first ascent route, which is known as the „Normal Route” on the mountain. There has also been other ascents that have been made from almost every direction.

The massif Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and 2 faces in South and Western aspects. Each rise 4000m from their respected base camps. Dhaulagiri has 5 summit peaks: Dhaulagiri I is (8167m/26,795ft) Dhaulagiri II (7751m/25,430ft) Dhaulagiri III (7715m/25,311ft) Dhaulagiri IV (7661m/25,135ft) Dhaulagiri V  (7618m/24,992ft) Surrounding the massive 8000m peak is: Churen Himal Main (7371m/24,183ft) Gurja Himal (6342m/20,807ft) Putha Hiunchuli (7246m/23,772ft) Junction Peak (4235m/13,894ft).

Extreme Expeditions operate the Dhaulagiri expedition in both spring and autumn seasons with full board and base camp logistic services. We offer services to groups or single participants. Extreme Expeditionsalways provides safe and secure mountaineering in a trusting and friendly environment. We provide professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the advanced base camp of Dhaulagiri through Darbang by bus,a trek through Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, Japanese camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics including airfare, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food. During the base camp and climbing period in the base camp our chefs and kitchen assistants will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will make sure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the base camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp services. In the base camp we also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

Dhaulagiri is normally climbed from the Northeast Ridge route. Typically four camps will be set up above base camp. The advanced base camp (5300m) Camp I(5900m)Camp II(6400m)Camp III(7200m)Camp IV(7500m).

Dhaulagiri Northeast Ridge:

Dhaulagiri Advanced Base Camp (4748m/15,577ft):

Extreme Expeditions always operates the Dhaulagiri expedition in both autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from the normal route “Northeast Ridge)but we will operate the Dhaulagiri expedition from the Southeast, Southwest and the Northwest. Groups requesting these options need to be a minimum of 5-6 people in a team.

The approach starts south of Dhaulagiri, trekking through the Majhangdi Khola, the gorge between the Dhaulagiri I & II around the North face of the mountain. Base camp is usually set up across from the Eiger, a steep rock tower that separates the North face from the Northeast spur. The Eiger is notorious for producing avalanches. The first part of the climb consists of a lengthy trek up the ice fall that starts at the foot of the Eiger and goes up towards the saddle between Dhaulagiri and Tukche-Ri. From there the climbers venture on to the actual Northeast ridge for the first time.

The advanced base camp will be setup for almost one month period. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different group and with a strategic viewing position of the Dhaulagiri massif. Our local partners provides a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpas. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss; it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.

Dhaulagiri Camp I (5450m/21,000ft) 4-5hrs:

Once you have reviewed the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5450m/21,000ft). In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge is known as Jacobs Ladderand is a moderately technical limestone and snow climb. Nowadays, the top of the ladder forms the location for camp II, but the 1960 expedition had set up an intermediate camp near the top of the ice fall. Prior to the first section of glacier you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and a moraine. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about two hours and requires fixing rope for almost 200m at a slope of 35-40º.

Dhaulagiri Camp II (6400m/20,997ft) 2½-3hrs:

The climbing from camp I to camp II is the moderate section of the route and ascends ice and few mixed climbing sections. Comparing with other camps the distance between camp I and camp II is safer and easier. Here you will encounter the heart of the ice and snow. The first section is just slogging over snow for about two hours, and then you encounter several steep section of blue ice at 35-40º slope and extends for50-60 meters, these sections do not require a ladder. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp II is situated above the snowy terrace.

Dhaulagiri Camp III (7400m/24,278ft)4-5hrs:

Camp II to camp III is the long distance of 1000m/3,281ft. Between camp II and camp III 100% route need to be fixed the like by Sherpa climbing guide. This section for most climbers feels easier and safe because most of the route is fixed.This section is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in autumn there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. In this climbing section you have to climb about 4 hours along blue ice and snow that is on a 35-45º slope. This section is a little dangerous in spring season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make the section avalanche prone. This is the reason Extreme Expeditions advises our clients to climb in autumn season rather than the spring season.

Dhaulagiri Summit (8,167m/26,795ft) 16-17 hrs:

Summit day is the main goal of the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid between 11:00-01:00am. If all goes well they reach the summit between 7:00-10:00am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp III from the summit and another 3 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. The route requires 400m of fixed rope above camp III below the serac another 400m of fixed rope above the serac and below the false summit another 100m. So we require almost 900m of rope above camp three to summit on a 35-50º slope. Most of the sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the lower sections, as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls the route becomes increasingly difficult. The climb passes through the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya.  Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.

WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT

   Is one of the highest mountains in the world.

   It is one of the most challenging mountains of our world.

✓   Because is a 8000 m peak that can be climbed in both seasons.

DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION

Your hometown-Nepal-Return

INCLUDED

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
  • Assistance at KTM international airport by our representatives during your arrival and departure.
  • 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis
  • One night hotel accommodation in Pokhara. B/B plan
  • Experienced and government licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period
  • Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period
  • Land transportation from Kathmandu-Pokhara- Late-Beni Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff
  • All kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp
  • Common climbing equipment such as: Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar
  • 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee
  • Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period
  • All camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member
  • All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp
  • Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee)
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Annapurna First
  • Nepalese Government Royalty
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3 time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff
  • Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
  • Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of client with requirement appropriate charge
  • Each client will have an individual tent available in the Annapurna first advanced base camp
  • Solar panel for light and electronics charging
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges
  • Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness
  • 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided for each member
  • Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided
  • We provide Sherpas tents, food for climbing and insurance
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
  • EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp one, three and South Col for cooking food
  • Generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp
  • Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information
  • Flight ticket re-confirmation and visa extension procedure services
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu before departure

NOT INCLUDED

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and internet expenses
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc
  • Transportation services includes only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be appropriately charged
  • Any additional staff other than specified
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
  • Walkie-talkies
  • Filming permit (if you have a special camera)
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment
  • Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips
  • Summit bonus minimum $100.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs
  • Airfare of international flights
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
  • Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section

ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1350m/4,429ft). Transfer to hotel for overnight stay.

Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.

Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 04: Drive from Pokhara to Darbang (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs Lodge accommodation.

Day 05: Trek from Darbang to Phaliya Gaon (1850m/6,070ft) 6 hrs.Teahouse/camping accommodation.

Day 06: Trek from Phaliya Gaun to Muri.(1850m/6,068ft) 3 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.

Day 07: Trek from Muri to Boghara (2080m/6,823ft) 4 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.

Day 08: Treks from Bagar to Dobhan Kharka (2520m 8,266ft), Teahouse/camping accommodation.

Day 09: Trek from Doban Kharka to Sallaghari (3100m/10,170ft) Teahouse/camping accommodation.

Day 10: Trek from Sallaghari to Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft). Camping accommodation.

Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day at Italian Base Camp before pass.

Day 12: Trek from Italian base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m /15,584ft).

Day13-40:Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft)

Day 41: Preparation to return and clean up the base camp.

Day 42: Trek from Dhaulagiri base campto Yak Kharka(4930m/16174ft) Camping accommodation.

Day 43: Trek from Yak Kharka to Tukuche (2590m/8,496ft) Drive to Tatopani(1190m/3,904ft).

Day 44: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2,723ft.) Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.

Day 45: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.

Day 46: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.