Himalaya
Location
46 Days
Duration
10 / 10
Physicality
18+
Age
Spring Autumn
Best Season

Annapurna I Expedition: An Overview

Elevation: 8,091 m  |  First ascent: 1950 |  Province: Himalaya, Nepal

Season: SPRING-AUTUMN  |  Group size: 2-10 person|  Price: ASK via Email or Contact form!

Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft.) is the 10th highest mountain in the world and eighth highest mountain in Nepal. Annapurna I is lowest 8000m peak but is one of the most technical climbing peaks in the Himalayas. The peak was climbed by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3,1950. It was not until 1970 that Annapurna was summited again from its Northwest Ridge. The peaks exact location can be found at the coordinates of 28°35’45”N83°49’20”E. The Annapurna massif contains six major peaks, Annapurna I (8091m/26,545ft) Annapurna II(7937m/26,040ft) Annapurna III(7555m/24,786ft) Annapurna IV (7525m/24,688ft)  Gangapurna (7455m/24,457ft) Annapurna South (7219m/23,684ft).

Annapurna in Sanskrit is literally translated to”full of food”but is normally translated to “Goddess of the Harvests.” In Hinduism, Annapurna is a goddess of fertility and agriculture and an avatar of Durga. The entire massif and surrounding areas are protected within the 7629 square kilometers (2,946 sq mi) Annapurna Conservation Area. This was the first conservation area in Nepal and still remains the largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including the Annapurna Circuit.

Annapurna is one of the world’s most technical mountains for that reason it has a bad fatality to summit ratio. The climb is a serious adventure and one of the most difficult 8000m peaks in the world. But there is a hope, a new route was used this year and will be the best and safest route to climb moving forward. The South Face of Annapurna is one of the largest and steepest faces in the world. The face is awesome in size and difficulty. The South Face is 3000 feet higher than the Southwest face of Mt. Everest. The South Face of Annapurna is relatively free of the terrible avalanche hazards that plague the standard routes on the North Face of the mountain.Despite the great difficulty the South Face is a logical route to the summit of Mt. Annapurna.

Extreme Expeditions provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, food along the trek and other individual services required by clients. Extreme Expeditions advises clients to use a personal climbing Sherpa guide (which we will provide) to help youreach the summit. Your personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp I, camp II and camp III with food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guidethe client on summit day.

After arriving in Kathmandu you will have a day of preparations and briefing for your climbing permit. Following that you will be flying to Pokhara and then driving to Tatopani by jeep. From here you will be trekking to Annapurna South base camp through wild jungles, along the way you will pass through villages such as: Lete and Miristi Khola. After having a few days rest, acclimatize and receive basic training from your Climbing Sherpa guide you will be starting your acclimatization period up to camp I, II and III.

Base camp to camp II is a very technical section of the route. it consists of an unstable and broken glacier that has dangling seracs which can come crashing down at any time. The climb is done with 3 camps. It takes 2 hrs to get from ABC to the bottom of the climb. The start of the route is a steep 70degree section that requires 500m of fixed rope. Here is the objective hazard area of the falling seracs. From camp I to camp II the climbing is slightly less steep but is still difficult with high objective avalanche danger. This section requires roughly 1000m of fixed rope. The route from camp II to camp III requires switchback navigation on the snow field between the seracs of the broken glacier. The summit is on exposed ridge and does not require fixed ropes, it is done as a free ascent.

Annapurna Southwest Ridge:

Annapurna Advanced Base Camp (4200m/13,780ft):

Extreme Expeditions operates the Annapurna expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We normally operate the expedition from normal route which is theSouthwest ridge.However, we will operate the Annapurna expedition from the Southwest face and the Northwest Ridge. The approach starts south of Annapurna and takes you through Tatopani, Lete and Miristi Khola. Base camp is usually set up on a flat, grassy area that is sheltered from avalanches. Advanced base camp will be setup for almost a one month period. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points of different group and at a strategic viewing positions of the Annapurna massif. We provide a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. Waiting for you upon your arrival will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss, it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.

Annapurna Camp I (5200m/17,060ft) 4hrs:

Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5300m/17,388ft). In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge rock and glacier. You will fix camp I at the middle of the glacier on a slope of 25º. This is a safe location and is protected form avalanches. This section of the climb is a bit technical and your climbing Sherpa guide will fix rope through this section. Some stronger climbers will skip this camp after and go right to camp II.

Annapurna Camp II (5700m/18,700ft) 4½hrs:

The climbing from camp I to camp II is a moderate section of ice with a few mixed sections of climbing. Comparing with others sections the terrain from camp I and camp II is safer and easier but you still have to climb and cross the black rock wall before heading up the glacier. Then you encounter several steep sections of blue ice at 45º, these sections are roughly 50-60, there is also another 60m high rock wall to negotiate. This section is said to be the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the snowy terrace.

Annapurna Camp III (6500m/21,325ft) 5-6hrs:

Camp II to camp III is the longest distance of 800m/2,655ft. Between camp II and camp III Sherpas will fix 80% of the route. This first section of climbing you will be crossing a glacier from east to west, you will then meet a 55º wall, which is almost 500m in length.Climbers have reported that this section is easier climbing but is still not to be taken lightly, your Sherpa will fix ropes on this section of the route. Be advised that there is exposure to cold and wind in this section. In autumn there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm. This section is little dangerous in autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which makes the section avalanche prone.

Annapurna Camp IV (7100m/23,294ft) 3½hrs:

Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short distance. Continue on the plateau where there are crevasses and seracs. Continue to the base of a spur which willjoin a big couloir. Camp IV can be set between 7100m-7200m in a panoramic rock cave. As all climbers are aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow and big wall at a 50-55º slope. This section is little dangerous in autumn season because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make the section avalanche prone. Our team will make an easy traverse to Camp IV at 7100m which allows you to have a shorter summit day.

Annapurna Summit (8,091m/26,545ft)16-17hrs:

Summit day is the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 11:00-12:00pm. If all goes well you will reach the summit between 7:00-10:00am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via a ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to camp IV from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. It requires an average of 900m of fixed rope above camp IV and below the summit. This is the reason we request almost 900m rope above camp III to the summit. Most sections are blue ice and snow. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 10th highest mountain in the world.

WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT

   Is one of the highest mountains in the world.

   It is one of the most challenging mountains of our world.

✓   Because is a 8000 m peak that can be climbed in both seasons.

DEPARTURE/RETURN LOCATION

Your hometown-Nepal-Return

INCLUDED

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
  • Assistance at KTM international airport by our representatives during your arrival and departure.
  • 4 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis
  • One night hotel accommodation in Pokhara. B/B plan
  • Experienced and government licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period
  • Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period
  • Land transportation from Kathmandu-Pokhara- Late-Beni Kathmandu for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff
  • All kitchen tent, storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp
  • Common climbing equipment such as: Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar
  • 3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee
  • Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period
  • All camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member
  • All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period
  • 50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle, Washington based company
  • Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp
  • Trekking Permit (Annapurna Conservation Park entry fee)
  • TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt. Annapurna First
  • Nepalese Government Royalty
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3 time summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person
  • All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period
  • Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff
  • Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp
  • Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
  • Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
  • Heater will be provided at base camp for the dining tent
  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of client with requirement appropriate charge
  • Each client will have an individual tent available in the Annapurna first advanced base camp
  • Solar panel for light and electronics charging
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges
  • Gamow Bags (Portable hyperbaric chambers) for high altitude sickness
  • 2 Bottles (8L) of Poisk Oxygen will be provided for each member
  • Latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided
  • We provide Sherpas tents, food for climbing and insurance
  • Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
  • EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp one, three and South Col for cooking food
  • Generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp
  • Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
  • Our service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information
  • Flight ticket re-confirmation and visa extension procedure services
  • Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with cultural show in Kathmandu before departure

NOT INCLUDED

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and internet expenses
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc
  • Transportation services includes only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be appropriately charged
  • Any additional staff other than specified
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
  • Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
  • Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
  • Walkie-talkies
  • Filming permit (if you have a special camera)
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment
  • Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips
  • Summit bonus minimum $100.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs
  • Airfare of international flights
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
  • Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section

ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport. Transfer to request  hotel accommodation for overnight.

Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.

Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 04: Trek or Drive from Pokhara to Tatopani (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 05: Trek from Tatopani and Lete (2300m/7,546ft) 4 hrs.Lodge accommodation.

Day 06: Trek from Lete to Jungle camp (2900m/9,515ft) Camping accommodation.

Day 07: Trek from Jungle camp to Miristi Khola(4260m/13976ft) Campingaccommodation.

Day 08: Trek from Miristi Khola to Annapurna-BC (4200m/13,780ft) Camping accommodation.

Day 9-38: Climb Annapurna I (8091m/26545ft.)

Day 39: Trek from Annapurna Base camp to Miristi Khola(4260m/13,976ft) Camping accommodation.

Day 40: Trek from Miristi Khola to Jungle camp (2900m/9,515ft)  Camping accommodation.

Day 42: Trek Jungle camp to Lete (2300m/7,546ft) Camping accommodation.

Day 42: Drive from Lete to Tatopani (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs.Tea house accommodation. Explore natural hot spring.

Day 44: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2723ft)Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request category hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.

Day 45: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.

Day 46: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.