Extreme Expeditions is a Romanian based company that is organizing and selling mountain expedition services all across the world by itself and ventured with its partners
Ama Dablam: An Overview
Ama Dablam Expedition is one of the most spectacular mountain climbing adventures in Nepal.The pyramidal shaped Mt. Ama Dablam stands at (6812m/22349ft.) and is one of the most impressive mountains in the world. Located just to the south of Everest and Lhotse it is distinguished by its vertical walls to the south and north as well as the sharp exposed ridges from all directions. Ama is considered the Matterhorn of the Himalaya. The Matterhorn of Himalayas leaves a lasting impression on many as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. Ama Dablam means „Mother’s necklace” the long ridges on each side are like the arms of a mother protecting her child. The hanging glacier is thought of as the Dablam, which traditionally is worn by Sherpa woman as a double-pendant containing pictures of the gods. While trekking in the Khumbu on the trekking route to Everest Base Camp, Ama Dablam stands monolithically above Tengboche monastery. A pearl of beauty in itself that commands its surroundings and captures your attention by its presence alone. This expedition is a serious undertaking and is a strong prerequisite to Everest. In terms of technicality Ama Dablam is considered harder than Everest. It demands a high skill level in rock climbing and ice climbing; sufficient experience at high elevation and technical competency. Ama Dablams summit is located at 27°51’42” N longitude and 86°51’40” E latitude.
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatized to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 meters near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the original first ascend route along the Southwest Ridge. The climb is typically done with three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam.You need to have a strong base of rock and ice climbing experience to climb this mountain.Most of the route on Ama Dablam is fixed, so climbers will need to be competent at ascending and descending fixed ropes and passing anchors. There is one pitch on the route that is just about dead vertical, so practice ascending a vertical fixed rope before the expedition.
As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May in the spring season and September-October-November in the autumn season. It is popular to combine the Ama Dablam expedition with a trek to Everest Base Camp or with an ascent of Island Peak. One of these two options serves as a very enjoyable way to acclimatize for the climb. Trekking to Everest Base camp is a very nice way to pay homage to Everest, the King of the Himalayas and to experience the classic Everest view from Kallapather. Combining Ama Dablam expedition with an Island Peak climb offers an extraordinary view of Everest from the summit, which in itself worthwhile ascetically and albeit an easy climbing experience.
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangements of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m. Camp 3 is located on the shoulder of the ridge just below and to the left of the last steep snow climb to the summit. Some years a camp 2.7 comes up which is tucked away on a narrow corner on the side of the southwest ridge between camp 2 and 3. Most climbers summit from camp 2 and do not establish a camp 3.
Ama Dablam Southwest Route Camps:
Base Camp (4600m/15092ft):
Ama Dablam base camp is one of the biggest grass base camps located in Nepal. It is rare to see such hospitable terrain at height of 4600m. Climbers will play volleyball and soccer at base camp to keep warm and enjoy the beautiful site. Base camp will be set up here for almost 45 days in both spring and autumn seasons. In the camp you will have great views Ama Dablam,Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. Ama Dablam’s base camp is generally sunny due to its location, the sun is out early and stays late into the day. There are approximately 7-10 climbing teams each spring and autumn season. To provides these high facilities for climbers at the appropriate times we arrange climbing permits with your time frame in mind. Our guides and staff are always ready to establish different departure dates as requested by climbers.
Camp One (5700m/18,800ft) 5hrs:
The climb from Ama Dabalm base camp to camp one is easy a trekking trail with only a short section of casual rock scrambling that is 100m in length. It nearby camp one at a slope of 60º. Along the way you will scramble over large boulders and climb an easy fourth class slab, with no fixed rope in place. You will quickly come to learn that on Ama Dablams Southwest ridge there are not many places to put a tent. So there is some logistics and sharing that is required among climbers. Roughly there is only space for 6-7, two man tents and 6-7 single tents.
Camp Two (5950m/19,521ft) 3hrs:
The climb from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on the route. You begin the day by scrambling and climbing along an easy fourth class horizontal rock ridge around several pinnacles and gendarmes, gaining only 300 meters/1000 vertical feet. The exposure is huge, with massive drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. The climbing is very enjoyable with good quality granite. At the end of the horizontal ridge you will climb the Yellow Tower for 6 meters which is considered French 4th class, British Severe, North American YDS 5.5. Above the Yellow Tower you will arrive at Camp 2 on small ledges. This will feel like a real big mountain high camp, high exposure on all sides. Be careful when you go to the toilet.
Camp Three (6200/20,341ft)-2hrs:
The climb from camp 2 to camp 3 shifts over to mixed, ice and snow terrain. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have great views of Ama Dablam base camp, Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is now time to traverse the infamous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters/20,300 feet. Looking up at camp 3 (6300 meters/20,800 feet), with the Dablam above. Some strong climbers push for the summit from camp two. However Extreme Expeditions will always fix camp three before the summit. With that being said it is important to advise that this section of the mountain is at high risk for avalanches. So reducing the time spent at this camp or bypassing it completely is imperative. For clients not feeling strong enough to push from camp 2 we usually spend 6 hours here before starting for summit push. The route from the yellow tower to camp three is almost 55º of slop most of the way.
Summit (6812M/22349ft) 10 hrs:
To summit from camp three and return back down to camp two takes most climbers about 10 hours. Summit day on Ama Dablam is a special one. Two easy pitches of dramatic but very solid snow-ice (40º+) are climbed to the side of the Dablam. Once you are next to the Dablam you reach a fluted snow/ice field (30-50º) that leads you to one of the world’s finest summits. Here you will be rewarded will the best seat in the house to view the Khumbu, the epicenter of high altitude climbing. Stunning panoramic views of the Lhotse, Nuptse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu come into view.
Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to hotel Yak and Yeti or similar hotel accommodation in Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft)
Day 02:Preparation, Briefings at Departments of tourism, Last minute shopping
Day 03:Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek to Phakding (2650m/8694ft, 04 hrs); lodge accommodation
Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar through colorful Khumbu villages (3440m/11286ft, 06hrs); Lodge accommodation
Day 05:Rest day for acclimatization; you will be hike to famous Everest View Hotel (3800m/12487ft, 3hrs) to catch a glimpse of Everest; explore Hilary and Sherpa museum at Namche in the evening with slide show program.
Day 06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850m/12631ft, 05-06 hrs); visit significant Buddhist monastery; lodge accommodation
Day 07:Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4600m/15091ft, 5hrs)
Day 8-26:Climbing period Summit Amadablam (6,812m/22,334ft)
Day 27:Preparation for return, trek to Tengboche (3860m/12631ft, 04 hours) lodge accommodation
Day 28:Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286ft, 04hrs) lodge accommodation.
Day 29:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m/9317ft,7hrs) lodge accommodation
Day 30:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (1350M/4430ft); 35minutes, transfer to hotel
Day 31:Leisure day & shopping in Kathmandu; Fair well-Celebration dinner with culture program in the Evening.
Day 32:Transfer to the airport for final departure
WHY WE THINK YOU’LL LOVE IT
✓ It is named „the most beautiful mountain of the world”
✓ It is one of the most technical mountains in Himalaya
✓ It qualifies you for a 8,000 m summit.
- Arrival and departure transfer services to and from both Domestic and International flight as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by our representatives while arriving and departing in Kathmandu.
- 4 Nights Yak and Yeti or similar hotels accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Experienced and government licensed high altitude trekking guide during the trekking and climbing period.
- Schedule Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff.
- All trekking and mountaineering equipments like; kitchen tent, stores tent, dining tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs, and cooking utensils for advance Base Camp and camp two.
- Common climbing equipment (necessary fixed and main rope, ice bars, ice screws, snow bar etc)
- Services of cook and kitchen boy at Advance Base Camp
- 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea/ coffee) in available tea house/hotel/lodge during the trekking
- 3 fresh meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners) will be serve at base camp, and camp two.
- All food and fuel for Base Camp and higher camps during expedition for both members and crews.
- Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak to climbing the Mt. Ama Dablam.
- Daily Weather Report Services from Seattle based
- Trekking Permit (Everest National Park entry fee)
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and climbing permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam(6812M).
- Nepalese Government Royalty and fees;
- One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and at list 02 Times Summiteer Climbing/expedition Sherpa Guide per client.
- All wages, equipment, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
- Equipment allowances and wages for Climbing Sherpa’s, cooks, kitchen boys.
- Equipment allowances and wages for Government Liaison Officer.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 3 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
- Heater will be provided at base camp for heating the dining room.
- Emergency Oxygen, mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Solar panel for light and battery charger.
- All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3 for members and staff.
- Ice fall charges by SPCC
- Gamow Bags (Portable Altitude Chamber).
- Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance for staff
- Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, cook and staff.
- Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
- Fresh cooked food and kitchen will be provided at Advance Base camp.
- Trekking and Climbing map of the Mount Ama Dablam.
- EPI Cooking gas, stove will be provided in camp one, three and south col for cooking food, boiling water.
- Generator will be providing for back- up of lighting power and charging electronic tools.
- Transportation of food supply to Base Camp from Kathmandu (Cargo to Lukla and then by porter/Yaks to base camp)
- Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information
- Flight ticket reconfirmation
- visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking.
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
- Extra transportation then display in itinerary program.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Filming permit (if special camera).
- Personal climbing gears;
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
- Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides as per Mountaineering Association rules.
- Minimum US$ 500.00 per climbing Sherpa guide.
- Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance on arrival in Kathmandu)
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
- Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section.